How to Deal With Pests-Q&A Part Two
Here is part two of a great Q & A the New York Times had with readers on how to deal with some common pest problems that plague us the the northeast. For anyone that missed part one we posted it last week.
Here is the second set of questions and answers about roaches, mice, ants and other creepy crawlies. (The first set is here.) We are no longer accepting questions for Mr. Braness.
Q.
What questions should one ask when hiring a pest control service? How can I tell if it is good or just going to spray around a bit — as the last company I hired seemed to do?— X, New York City
A.
Often the best way to find a quality pest control firm is to use one that has been referred to you by a family member or friend. Also, ask if the company is a member of its local or state pest control association, or the National Pest Management Association (N.P.M.A.). I’d recommend visiting the N.P.M.A. Web site for help in making a decision.
Be sure that the company you hire is licensed and insured, and that the technician doing your work is certified in the proper use of pesticides. Ask if it guarantees its work. Does it provide services based on integrated pest management (I.P.M.)? Experts agree that this is the best approach to solving pest problems, as it includes inspection and nonchemical and chemical treatment options. Finally, it’s often a good idea to contact several companies before making your final decision.
Q.
Perhaps not technically a pest, brown recluse spiders seem to be ubiquitous in older homes. It’s not uncommon to find a large one in the tub at least once a week. My guess is that they climb in there and then can’t climb out, not coming up from the drain. Do they live in the attic? Or the basement? I don’t like killing spiders, but this is one I won’t handle. Is it true that unless pinched, they won’t bite?— Warrior Ant Press, Kansas City, Mo.
A.
Many spiders are simply a nuisance and even beneficial as they feed on insects. However, the brown recluse spider is considered a medically important spider because of its toxic venom. These spiders can be in large numbers in homes. There was a home near Kansas City where more than 2,000 brown recluse spiders were removed over a six-month period. The spiders are not aggressive, but will bite when disturbed. Symptoms of bites range from minor to severe skin lesions. They can be found in many areas inside a home and also outdoors during warm months. You are correct: they are not coming up the drain, just unable to make their way out of the smooth surface of the tub. For helpful information on spiders visit spiders.ucr.edu.
Q.
I remember reading about a pesticide for cockroaches that was so effective that widespread use of it could bring them to the point of extinction. What has become of it? Also, when I had a sailboat I was told that if it became infested with cockroaches, sprinkle borax all over and that would eliminate them. The thinking was that as the cockroaches walked through the borax the stuff would stick to their legs, and when they preened they would ingest the borax and die off. At any rate, what’s the latest in the battle against cockroaches?— John Brady, Canterbury, CT
A.
I believe you are referring to cockroach baits. When these baits were first introduced and began to be widely used by professionals, some thought that they would eliminate cockroaches as a significant pest. For many years, cockroaches were the No. 1 pest problem. After the introduction of these baits they lost their top ranking to other pests. However, have no fear, cockroaches will not become extinct anytime soon.
When applied properly, these baits — which include several insecticide active ingredients and highly palatable foods that encourage consumption — are very effective in controlling cockroaches.
Dusts that contain boric acid are effective in controlling cockroaches, but should not be placed in exposed areas. They are most effective against cockroaches when placed in wall voids.
Much of the research into household pests is now focused on bed bug management. An interesting and promising area in cockroach research is work on better understanding the role of German cockroach control and the reduction in cockroach allergens that trigger the onset of asthma in children. Elimination of German cockroaches in apartments has been shown to be more important than any other factor in reducing the incidence of asthma.
Q.
I live in the suburbs. Last fall I had an infestation of ants in the kitchen. I have never had insects before. However, I called an exterminator and he resolved the issue. I live in a private house. Everything is clean (no garbage, etc.). Just recently I saw one ant in the kitchen. What is the cause of this? Is this the beginning of a problem again?— Carol, Westbury, New York
A.
Across the U.S., ants are considered the top nuisance pest in and around structures. According to a recent survey sponsored by the National Pest Management Association (www.pestworld.org), the number of ant infestations is on the rise. Ants are most active during the warm months of spring through fall. It’s not at all unusual to see a few ants indoors. The movement of ants and other pests indoors often occurs during changes in environmental conditions like heavy rain, drought, and temperature extremes.
Continue to keep the inside of your home clean. Keep foods that are attractive to ants in sealed containers. Ants are especially attracted to the kitchen and bathroom areas of homes. This is where they have access to food and moisture. They are also attracted to areas where pet food is available. Check around your home for any moisture problems (leaky pipes, poor drainage, clogged gutters, etc.) and correct these problems. Ants will make nests outdoors under steppingstones or other objects next to your home and will move from these sites to inside your home. It may be helpful to have another service this season to keep the ants out and prevent other pests from moving inside.
Q.
Ants, ants, ants! They seem to be coming from behind the oven, making their way along the top edge of the tile backsplash (in a single-file line, of course) before arriving at last near the sink, where they idle about and cavort in their antlike way on the countertop in large (unwelcome) numbers. I went away on a weeklong vacation, and they left. too. But within a few days of my return, they were back to hang out with me! Is there any nontoxic liquid or substance I could use to block their path, or is a commercial poison called for? If so, which one, and how should I apply it most safely?—Jon Greene, Brooklyn
A.
Apparently, the ants really like you. I would do all the nonchemical approaches first and then set out ant baits if the ants persist. First, try sealing all entryways for the ants. I should point out that because of the small size of many common pest ants, it’s often difficult to seal all the entryways. Repair leaky plumbing and correct any drainage problems. Keep foods that are attractive to ants in sealed containers. Clean your kitchen and do not leave dirty dishes out overnight. This includes running the dishwasher. There are several effective ant baits available for use by homeowners. For best results, place the baits where ants are trailing. Also, put the bait in out-of-way places, like behind the refrigerator or cabinets. Always read and follow all label directions. If these steps fail to stop the ants you may want to call a professional.
Q.
What is the reason for a sudden explosion of ants in the house at the end of the day? The ants are black and some of them have wings. They are not carpenter ants. But they tend to arrive later in the afternoon, they cluster on the windows, and there’s a lot of them.— Barbara Rudolph, New York, N.Y.
A.
The ants you are referring to may actually be swarming subterranean termites. They are often confused with ants. The following characteristics can be used to distinguish termite swarmers from swarming ants: Termite swarmers — two pair of wings of equal size and shape (also, the wings easily detach from the swarmers and accumulate on window sills), broad waist and straight antennas. Swarming ants — two pairs of wings with the hind pair much smaller, narrow waist and elbowed antennas. If you determine that these are termites, you should contact a professional for a termite inspection.
Q.
Do you think the high decibel sound systems (that plug in any outlet) are an effective and efficient detour to mice coming into apartments?— Joanne, New York City
A.
NO. Numerous studies have been conducted that clearly show that these devices have no effect in deterring mice or other pests. Save your money — do not buy these devices.
Q.
I put a thin line of boric acid along the entryway of my apartment door because I’ve heard this works to keep out/kill roaches. Is this true? If it is true, do you have any suggestions for other places I should use the boric acid?— BK, Queens
A.
Boric acid is an inorganic insecticide that has been used for many years to control pests. It is effective against cockroaches when used properly, but is slow acting. In the dust formulation, which I believe you are describing, it is most effective when applied in wall voids or other undisturbed areas. The dust should not be applied to exposed surfaces, and therefore I recommend against placing it along your entryway. A better solution for your entryway is to ensure that you have a tightfitting door. Good places to apply the boric acid dust would be around plumbing lines and other openings that penetrate the wall. After treating these sites with the dust, it would be helpful to seal up the openings. You can also remove electrical and light switch outlets and apply dust behind the electrical boxes in the wall void. The dust can also be applied below the floor-level cabinets in the kitchen. A small amount of dust (just a light coating) in these areas will provide long-lasting control. Read and follow all label directions on the boric acid label.
Q.
Two weeks ago I was in a four-star hotel on Harbor Island in the Bahamas — not a third-world country, but not first-world either, although the one-bedroom suite was expensive. The first night I opened the bathroom door to find a cockroach over 1½ inches long with antennas about the same length, and about 12 to 15 small cockroaches under an inch in length. The large one didn’t scurry away, but stood its ground.
No way was I smashing that large bug; if I didn’t kill it on first stomp it could have crawled onto my foot. I stomped the floor, though, and after four stomps getting closer and closer to it, it crawled a little way under the baseboard. The next morning I called the desk and reported it and also said they were getting in because the baseboard was not flush with the floor.
The hotel sprayed but did not repair the space (I asked it to caulk the space). Two nights later, a new, but smaller group of cockroaches were on the bathroom floor.
What type of pest deterrent should I carry with me on second- and third-world trips? Spray, caulk, masking tape?— ILM, Los Angeles
A.
You should not have to share your room with pests. Quality hotels take pest problems seriously and should have a professional pest service. When checking into a hotel room, I’d suggest you take a moment to look around for possible pest activity. To help you with your inspection, you might take a small flashlight with you when you travel. Inspect the bathroom, especially in and around cabinets. Check the closet and open the clothing drawers or any other cabinets in the room and look for live pests or their evidence. Check around the bed and the headboard for possible bed bug activity. You might also check the door to see if it is tight fitting and if the windows have screens that are in good repair. If pests or their evidence are seen, ask to be moved to another room or change hotels.
Q.
What is the nature and toxicity of chemicals used to treat termites? In particular, if an exterminator suggests completing treatment inside the home. On that same note, how successful is vinegar as a treatment for termites, and how is it most effectively used?— IDvolksvan87, New York
A.
There are many good termiticides (chemicals used to treat termites) available today that are low in toxicity when applied according to label directions. Most have the signal word CAUTION on their labels, indicating that the product is low in toxicity. Termites can be treated using termite baits, liquid treatments or a combination of the two.
Before treating, the pest management professional will inspect your home for termites and their damage. Indoor treatment for termites is generally only needed if termite activity is found indoors. Since most termite infestations originate from outside the home, the emphasis on termite treatment is around the outside perimeter. If a liquid treatment is used, it will be applied to the soil in a trench around your building’s foundation. If the area is covered by cement, it will be drilled and then chemical applied to the soil through the drill holes. These drill holes must be plugged after the application. When termite baits are used, they are placed in the soil next to the building’s foundation. The number of bait placements will depend on the size of your home. Baits are also available for use inside homes if an infestation is found indoors. Vinegar is not an effective product for termite control. A professional service is needed if you have termites.
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